It rivals Angkor Wat and Machu Pichu, particularly due to being less visited. Although it’s unlikely to be that way for much longer, as more and more people head to Myanmar on their travels, filling their Instagram feeds with sunrise pictures. So if you are planning a visit, here’s my recommendations for exploring Bagan’s best pagodas.
Where to start
Pagoda is often the general term applied to temples or stupas, although it can refer to certain types of structure in some countries, particularly in Asia. Temples are generally places of worship, often consisting of a cluster of buildings and with several entrances. Stupas tend to be sealed, although they may contain religious relics. Most of time you can’t go inside, only around them.
Bagan is an archaeological zone, which requires payment of a fee to enter for up to 3 days. The cost is just 25,000 Kyat (current rate approximately £13/US$17). Unless you can stomach being ‘templed out’ you really won’t want to spend more than 2 days here. A good number of the key pagodas can be covered off in 1 day, even when taking your time.
Getting around
It’s not possible to cover the key sites on foot, so the other choices will depend on your budget and stamina:
Bicycle – You will need a certain level of fitness to endure this option, although I managed it for 1 day. It’s the heat and dust that is the biggest factor to consider, and having to navigate between places.
E-bike – This was possible when we were there but is much more common now. Just be prepared for batteries dying, with the number of the rental company and a local sim on your phone to call them. Alternatively there is usually a local around that will help if needed.
Motorbike – Check your insurance, as this will depend on your licence back home.
Car – Avoids the dust and heat, but can be a bit pricey, but it does also mean you have a local guide who will share some stories and insights.
Horse and carriage – looks romantic and rustic but it’s not good for the horses. Avoid this option.
Guided tours – There are local guides for hire, or you can join a group tour from some of the hotels. You can explore independently but a guide is always an idea to ensure you don’t miss the best sights. Then again this post should help with that.
Bagan’s best pagodas
Built between the 11th and 13th centuries there was once over 10,000 temples, stupas and monasteries in the city of Bagan. Today they believe only 2,000 remain. Mostly crammed into a 13 x 8km Bagan Archeological Zone.
Depending on when you visit, it can get crowded. Especially around sunrise and sunset. Many of the temples are no longer open to climb, so those that are will be filled with people. Although it is possible to find quiet spots, if you scout the web for recommendations. These are some of my recommendations from Bagan’s best pagodas , all of which could be easily covered in 1 day:
Shwesandaw Pagoda
Quite impressive to look at but it’s real draw is the vistas from the terraces. Be prepared to climb around 40 steep steps in the darkness before dawn if you head there for sunrise. But it’s totally worth it, and where most of those hot air balloon Instagram pics were taken.
Shewezigon Pagoda
We were staying really close to this one, so it was the first we visited and it’s beautiful at sunset. The golden stupa is pretty spectacular and there are four temples surrounding it which are interesting to explore.
Be careful of scams, particularly with locals trying to take you into a temple for a ceremony.
Ananda Pagoda
Beautifully preserved, although was under construction when I was there. Apparently nicknamed the ‘Westminster Abbey of Myanmar’.
Dhammayangi Pagoda
One of the biggest pagodas but is only part accessible, the twin Buddhas are also famous.
Thatbyinnyu Pagoda
The tallest pagoda, although it seems easy to confuse with Ananda given they are both white temples.
Sulamani Pagoda
Particularly photogenic, it’s symmetrical shape at the end of a well maintain pathway is often avoided during the mid day heat, so it can be quiet here if you time your visit right.
Bu Paya Pagoda
The site itself isn’t that impressive, although the entrance is a little bit different to the stupa inside. It’s the riverside location that is worth the visit as there’s usually a cool breeze, so a good place to stop by mid way through the day.
Plan a visit
Make sure you decide which pagodas you want to visit and plan out a route in advance. It can be frustrating in the heat if you haven’t worked out where you are going. Also allow time for breaks and lunch.
I would recommend picking both the larger and smaller sites, and mix it up a bit. You will be ‘templed out’ by the end of the day so I suggest saving one of the best for last as a good way to keep the interest levels going.
Ensure you are up well before dawn to experience sunrise and end the day with sunset. This post has some up to date recommendations if you want to climb up for the best views at this time of day.
Best time to visit
Between November and February when temperatures are less hot and rainfall is low.
Getting there
Bus – overnight from Yangon or up to 7 hours from Mandalay. Potentially saving you the cost of a nights accommodation.
Boat – down river (8-10 hours) arriving mid afternoon. Wear sunscreen when sitting on deck as the sun is surprisingly strong. The best part is the first hour or so and the last 30 minutes, so don’t sleep during these times.
Plane – domestic flights only.
Train – avoid this option if you can, it’s a lengthy overnight journey that is an experience you will be glad you missed.
Have you been to Myanmar, got any other recommendations for Bagan’s best pagodas?
Why not check out my Tips for Myanmar travellers post for more or check back soon for more from my travels.
