Since the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed in New Zealand, it’s become a much more sought after destination. However, New Zealand had always been a popular gap year and back packer experience when I was younger (20 years ago!). In fact it was one of the first countries I visited when on an extended trip. And I left concluding that New Zealand is stunning.
I planned specifically only to travel around the North Island when I was first there in 2007. Knowing full well that I needed to dedicate more time, planning to return, for the South Island.
During that first trip, I was mesmerised by the views from having taken a couple of flight experiences with a friend. At the time he was training as a pilot and clocking up flying time, so it was the perfect opportunity to see the North Island from the sky.
Finally, in December and January, just gone, I took 6 weeks to travel through mostly the South Island, powered by a friend’s car (Maggot). I’ve barely had time to digest it all, since getting home. However I can still safely say that New Zealand is stunning. There is no corner where you can’t find a viewpoint, look out across nature and of course experience proper fresh air. The level of almost pure air and scale of options to experience the outdoors is endless. It’s somewhere in the world that is really worthy of taking some time. So, unless you live over that way, I recommend taking an extended trip. The time difference and flight time will certainly give you jet lag, which you might want ideas on how to kick.
North or South
This is the first question that people ask. Which Island did I prefer?
Really, there is no comparison, they are both very different and unique to other places in the world that I have ventured.
The North is more cultural, more populated and has the added attractions of Rotarua and Hobbiton, as well as the largest city, Auckland.
The South is more spread out. The mountain ranges through the centre cast a divide from north to south of the island, creating climates of sometimes varying extremes on each side.
Both offer numerous hiking opportunities in and out of the towns and cities. Sometimes requiring a little planning. Particularly if heading there overnight. Otherwise there are some cute places to base yourself.
There are no language barriers and the locals are extremely friendly. The North and South islanders will joke with each other, about the weather, the population, about just about anything really. As they will with visitors. Their sense of humour is generally wicked.
What to do when you visit
This will of course depend on your personal preferences but there are a few places and experiences that in my view, should not be missed. I need a few posts to cover fully, but the following are a good start to experience some of the stunning scenery.
Kayaking the Sounds
The Sounds on the west of the South Island are extremely popular with visitors. There are in fact 13 of them but I’m just going to mention a couple of the more visited ones, rather than debate over which of the 13 are the best.
Firstly Milford Sound, which in particular can be busy. Especially along the Milford Road where there is a lot of places to stop and view. We spent a full day driving along here, and it was certainly one of the best weather days we had during our visit.
Mirror Lake, Milford Road
It gets busy as the day passes, so starting early is a good shout. Then when you arrive at the Sound itself it can be busy. It’s popularity is largely due to there being no limits on boats/ferries and the many hard core day trippers that head there from Christchurch.
Milford Sound, early morning view
Doubtful Sound is calmer, and less busy as it requires more time. A ferry across Lake Te Anau and then a drive limits access some what. Many visitors spend time overnight in Doubtful Sound although it is possible on a day trip.
Doubtful Sound view from above
We kayaked at both Milford and Doubtful. Milford in the early morning was beautiful and avoided the day trippers and boats. With a clear start and ending with rain, it was the perfect combination. Exploring down at water level, paddling through the glacial flow is beautiful whatever the weather.
For Doubtful Sound we took a 2 day kayak experience, which meant camping in the bush overnight. This was probably the highlight of the entire trip for me. A day trip would have also been amazing, particularly given how quiet the area is. The overnight meant a longer route and properly roughing it.
I probably should mention the sandflies – absolutely menacing and will probably be covered in another post. However, they didn’t deter from the Sounds, and particularly Doubtful, being at the top of my list.
Hiking the Abel Tasman coast track
Being fairly active when travelling can certainly be worthwhile. Hiking and walking is something anyone can do, with little equipment, and at a pace that suits.
The Abel Tasman coast track, named after the seafarer of the same name, is a 3-5 day hike along the coastline of Abel Tasman National Park. The trail varies a bit, so you can pick the sections you want to hike, or complete the whole route. Obviously the latter involves a little planning with some overnights.
Abel Tasman view
We completed 3 days, without spending time overnight, and on 3 separate visits to the area. Water taxis and careful planning around tide times makes anything possible. More details in a future post.
Pororari river track
Punakaiki and its world-famous Pancake Rocks is likely to appear on many travellers itinerary. However, it can be crowded and touristy. If you head inland from there a bit, one of New Zealand’s stretches of river amidst a limestone wilderness is really quite something.
The Pororari River Track, in the Paparoa National Park connects with other tracks, but on it’s own is a fairly gentle and short hike. I would sum this up as easy going, picturesque and green. It’s pretty exotic looking, and doable in any weather, in my opinion.
Pororari River view
What is great, is the fact that you might not see many others for a reasonable amount of time. Being fully at one with nature is possible here and it’s quite a unique area on the South Island.
We didn’t have the best weather when we were there, but it really didn’t matter. There were also people doing the Paparoa Track, which is the country’s newest “Great Walk” and of course the Pancake rocks are close by. So, many reasons to include the Pororari river track on your itinerary.
I could continue to write about the many other stunning locations in New Zealand, but it’s really something you have to see for yourself. I would highly recommend an extended visit to New Zealand – New Zealand is stunning, there is no doubt about that!
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Great review… Very jealous of your time in Doubtful Sound.
The South Island is amazing and generally speaking all the images you have in your head of nz before you actually visit are of the South Island….but the North Island has some wonderful sights and much more varied landscapes, should you ever get sick of looking at the south island’s mountains.
I always think of it really simply. North Island = people, history, culture. South Island = pretty, just pretty.
North Island = cows, South Island = sheep.
Both are worth a visit and the maximum amount of time you can give it. 🙂